A- Z of skincare ingredients part 1: A-M

With the “All things” skincare products articles, I mentioned a lot of ingredients that one may not always know what they actually are. It’s important to know product ingredients so you know what you’re putting on your face, what the benefits are, whether you are sensitive towards it, if there are disadvantages or if it is indeed what your skin needs. This makes it easier to pick up your desired skincare. For example, if you choose to purchase a brightening sheet mask, they usually include hyaluronic acid, which is great for hydration as well but could also lead to clogging pores when mixed with other ‘brightening’ ingredients such as essential oils. To make things easy, everything is sorted from A - Z. Not all alphabet letters are included, as some products are inferior to others. For example, D & I were left out. Most of the basic and most important ingredients are listed here, but there are other ingredients too that aid in scents, preserve, and consistency that is not mentioned. This is Part 1 of the A-Z of the ingredients as to not overwhelm and confuse you.

B’s recommendations are also around for top picks containing the ingredient mentioned, so here we go:

A

• Aloe vera: a common household plant with supposedly healing properties. This ingredient is almost always recommended for individuals with a sensitive skin type. Its benefits include soothing, healing, and cooling, which in turn helps to counteract burns especially. This is more commonly found in aftersun lotions but works great for anti-inflammatory as well. B’s recommendation: The Body Shop Calming Foaming Wash.

• Vitamin A: another ingredient that aids in healing the skin. Vitamin A is also retinol (see under R) and helps to speed up healing and aids in preventing breakouts. Due to it penetrating on both the dermis and epidermis of the skin, it assists in keeping them healthy and promoting a radiant glow. However, one's skin needs to get used to this ingredient type, just to build up a bit of a tolerance. This product is also more suitable to use at night, as it may cause skin irritation when exposed to UV or sun rays. B’s recommendation: SKOON Retinin cream.

• Alcohol: my grandma always taught me that red wine is good for the skin, due to its detoxifying properties. And although this may have a truth to it, alcohol on the skin may be slightly harsh. You do get good alcohols for drying out blemishes or disinfecting scar tissue, but I would generally stay away from products with this ingredient, purely due to irritation. However, there are “fatty alcohol” types, such as cetyl and stearyl which in some products, may even fall under the “alcohol-free” category. B’s recommendation: Cetaphil gentle skin cleanser

• AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid): or in other words your scrubs. This is an exfoliating ingredient that is made up of milk and/or fruit sugars. They are the main source behind breaking down dead skin cells and promoting a healthy glow. I would recommend not using this product ingredient daily however, just to give your skin a chance to breathe. Glycolic acid and lactic acid are types of AHA’s and provide the same results mentioned. B’s recommendation: REN ready steady glow AHA tonic.

• Antioxidants: these are formulated ingredients that protect the skin against harsh environmental factors and pollution. They are made up of Vitamins E & C as well as green tea and Niacinamide (more information on the mentioned below) B’s recommendation: Lancome advanced génifique sensitive dual concentrate.

• Argan Oil: this is one of my favourite ingredients, especially to use in my hair. It derives from the kernels of argan trees and its main purpose is hydration. My only problem with it is that if used in excess it can be greasy and in turn, that may clog pores. However, I would highly recommend this on your hair, on your face for dehydrated skin and fine wrinkles. B’s recommendation: The Ordinary 100% organic cold-pressed Moroccan argan oil.

B

• Benzoyl Peroxide: One word: Acne. One of the top ingredients in treating acne. It can even be bought as an over the counter topical solution. This is most commonly used with teenagers but works well for adult acne as well. B’s recommendation: La Roche-Posay Effaclar duo dual action acne treatment.

• BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid): much like it’s friend AHA this ingredient type works well to clear pores, but on an oil-based and chemical level, as opposed to the physical exfoliant. It penetrates deep to clear blackheads especially. See salicylic acid (a type of BHA) under S for more information. B’s recommendation: Skin Functional Blemish & Pore spot therapy 9% BHA.

C

• Vitamin C: most commonly found in citrus fruit, but I do not recommend putting citrus on your skin just like that, especially anything containing lemon (including in skincare). Vitamin C in skincare is, however, your best friend. It helps combat wrinkles and UV or sun exposure and is best suited to use in the mornings. It helps fade pigmentation and is great great great to use under sunscreen. It even has an ability to produce extra collagen which in turn combats fine lines. B’s recommendation: SKOON wow-wow wonder serum. (It really is wow wow).

• Collagen: on your skin, in your skin, digesting it in a powder or a capsule, my answer to collagen is always YES. This is a protein form derived from animals that act as a water binding agent. In other words, it locks in moisture. Although the most effective collagen products are not vegan, there are vegan types as well! This product is especially suitable for mature skin types, as it is such an efficient and effective “age reversal” ingredient. I’ve seen it’s magic first hand with my own mother who is in her fifties. It works on the skin to help the skin build up in both scar tissue and fine lines, in other words, smoothing the skin from inside out. Drinking collagen also has a miraculous effect not only on the skin, but nails, hair, joints, and in flexibility. B’s recommendation: so here are two recommendations, one you take and one to apply; Biogen Collagen Capsules; L’Oreal Paris Collagen moisture filler facial day & night cream

• Caffeine: This ingredient (mostly found in coffee) is an antioxidant type and generally gives the face a wake up through reducing redness and soothing while brightening. B’s recommendation: Lush Cup ‘O Coffee' face & body mask.

• Clay: a very very popular and hyped up ingredient, especially in mask format. Clay is an ancient ingredient used for absorbing excess oils and to help unclog congested pores. It works well in conjunction with other acne-fighting ingredients to prevent and rid of breakouts. B’s recommendation: L’Oreal Pure clay exfoliate & refine mask. (It’s one of my favourite masks)

• Charcoal: another hyped up ingredient in modern skincare is activated charcoal. Known for its cleansing properties, it’s usually found in scrubs and masks, but I would not recommend this for sensitive skin types, as some charcoal products might be a bit coarse. However, dirt, metals, chemicals, and other toxins are attracted to charcoal and are in return washed away. B’s recommendation: hey gorgeous Activated Charcoal scrub.
  

E

• Vitamin E: Vitamin E is good for the skin both ingesting and on the skin. It is most popularly found in foods such as nuts, vegetable oils, and seeds. It’s mainly a fat-soluble antioxidant aiding in heart health and the immune system. Vitamin E & Vitamin C are counterparts and vitamin E is also beneficial to your skin with regards to the sun. It’s often present in sunscreen and anti-aging products due to its properties including protection from free radicals (such as UV rays). B’s recommendation: Clinique moisture surge eye 96- hour hydro filler concentrate.

• Elastin: this is naturally found within the skin, giving the skin its flexibility. When applied, it acts as a hydrating agent, but there’s no concrete evidence that it helps for skin elasticity. I would opt for collagen-based ingredients over elastin based, or a product containing both. B’s recommendation: RegimA Quantum Elastin - Collagen revival

• Emollient: This is mostly used as a thickening agent in creams and helps the skin to stick to moisture for a softening and soothing effect. This is found in your most common body products, such as body lotion and includes your coconut oils, shea butter, and other fatty acids. It helps give the product its creamy texture. B’s recommendation: Olay Ultra Moisture shea butter body wash.

F

• Ferulic acid: Mostly extracted from wheat strains, this is not as popular as some of the other ingredients mentioned here, but a superstar none the less. This is one of the strongest antioxidants with its properties including being able to soak up reactive free radicals on your skin and prevent any oxidative stress. Great for sun barrier, pigmentation, and fading fine lines. This works especially well when used in conjunction with Vitamins C & E. B’s recommendation: Derma Fix Ferulic + C + E antioxidant protection.

G

• Glycolic acid: Remember AHA above? So this is just an AHA type. Never overuse and always wear SPF when using. B’s recommendation: Mario Badescu Glycolic foaming cleanser.

• Glycerin: In other words: soap. More than that it is a humectant naturally found in the skin, and although most soaps are made up of this, small doses are contributed into skincare that has been shown to be effective in restoring the skin. B’s recommendation: Kiehl’s cucumber herbal conditioning cleanser.

• Green tea: another antioxidant type with proven benefits in soothing and improving sun damage. It also has anti-aging effects. I would not recommend just slathering a cup of green tea on your face though, but it works as a great concentrate within skincare products. B’s recommendation: The Chok Chok Green tea watery toner

H

• Hyaluronic Acid: This sits on top of the skin and holds onto the moisture that keeps the skin plump. Be sure to look for this ingredient if hydrated skin is a desire. The PH of this acid matches the PH of your skin, so it is less harsh than most skin ingredients and suitable for sensitive skin. The only downfall is that its molecules are too large to penetrate directly into the skin, so it sits only at the top layer, working its plumping and hydrating magic there. B’s recommendation: Neutrogena Hydro Boost hydrating serum.

• Hemp oil: A universal ingredient that is compatible with all ingredient types. On its own it does not do much other than reducing inflammation, but when paired with other ingredients, it’s like it gives them a boost. It works great for both hydration and regulating oil production, making it suitable for all skin types. It’s also super natural and does not cause any havoc on the environment. B’s recommendation: The Body Shop Hemp heavy-duty face protector.

J

• Jojoba oil/beads: This ingredient is structured closely matching your natural sebum and oils. This is therefore great to use for oily skin but also acts as a nourishing and hydrating treatment at the same time. B’s recommendation: hey gorgeous Banish & Repair serum.

K

• Kaolin clay: A clay type that is perfect for absorbing excess oils and shine, penetrating deep into the skin, and ‘loosening’ any pesky blemishes. B’s recommendation: GlamGlow Supermud clearing treatment.

L

• Licorice: Licorice extracts come from the root of the licorice plant and does not necessarily refer to the long black sweet we so commonly know. This is a great ingredient for fading pigmentation. This is especially recommended for people with dark skin that are prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. B’s recommendation: Himalaya Herbals clear complexion day cream with licorice & white dammer.

M

• Mineral Oil: This does not have the best reputation in skincare ingredients due to it being a by-product of petroleum. However, it remains a great hydrating ingredient none the less, it’s the basis of Vaseline, for example. The only negative connotation would be that it could clog the skin, other than that it creates a film over the skin that repels water, thus sealing in moisture instead of having it evaporate. It’s also great to use on scars and stretch marks. B’s recommendation: Bio-Oil skincare oil.

There you have it my lovelies! I hope this was informative and helps you in making future skincare decisions that work for you. Be sure to check out part two next week. But for now, keep going, keep glowing & keep growing. You’re doing amazing

• B x

✅

N

• Niacinamide

O

• Oatmeal

P

• Parabens

• Phthalate

• Peptides

Q

• Q10

R

• Retinol

• Rose water

• Reitnoids

S

• Sulfates

• Silicone

• Salicylic Acid

• Sodium hyaluronate

T

• Tea tree oil

• Titanium oxide

U

• Urea

V

• Vegetable Oil

W

• Witch hazel

Y

• Yogurt

Z

• Zinc Oxide